A two night and one day sail in brisk winds and lumpy seas brought
us from the atoll of Toau in the Tuamotu Archipelago to the reef pass leading
to the famous city of Papeete, Tahiti.
From our reading, and information passed along by other cruisers, we
knew that Papeete was a busy, noisy and rather commercial town that was no
longer the vision of unspoiled, tropical paradise. Never the less, we were excited to be there
as it gave us the opportunity to re-provision at real supermarkets and to
purchase a few items for “Blue Rodeo” at a well-stocked, marine hardware
store. We had been sailing for several
months around the sparsely populated islands of the Marquesas and Tuamotus so
being back in “civilization” also allowed us to indulge ourselves in a
restaurant meal or two.
We had been traveling at a fairly fast pace hoping to see as
much as possible and still make it to Tahiti in time for a three-day rendezvous
party, put on by “Latitude 38” magazine and the Tahiti Board of Tourism, for
the fleet of “Pacific Puddle Jumpers” that were making the crossing this
year. As we motored into the crowded
anchorage about 5 miles south of downtown Papeete, we were pleased to see many
familiar boats and good friends including Larry and Karen, of the yacht “Phanta
Rei”, who had come there two weeks early to have their water maker
repaired. As soon as we were securely
anchored, they picked us up by dinghy and shuttled us to the nearby marina
docks where we could start a shore-side exploration. In their company, we stopped first at a
nautical chandlery (hardware store) and then walked a short distance to, of all
places, a McDonalds where we treated ourselves to “McFlurry” soft ice cream
deserts. Next, it was off to the
Carrefour supermarket where we experienced sensory overload perusing isle after
isle of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Just imagine a store similar to a US
Wal-Mart, but with a French flavor.
After a provisioning reconnaissance run, we all climbed aboard a city
bus for a trip to the downtown area.
After two seasons of riding busses in Mexico, where they are usually
driven through traffic at hair-raising speeds and often lack functioning
shock-absorbers and mufflers, we were unprepared for the Tahitian bus
experience. We have to say that although
the ride was much quieter, smoother and more comfortable, it lacked the
adrenalin rush that we had come to expect from public transportation in Mexico.
Once downtown, we walked around a bit, getting oriented,
then headed to a large parking lot adjacent the waterfront that is transformed
each night into a culinary venue that has become a “must experience” for Tahiti
visitors. Around sunset, the lot fills
with mobile kitchens (food trucks known as “roulottes”) that serve an
assortment of tasty, reasonably-priced meals ranging from poisson cru to
burgers to all of the usual Chinese dishes.
We all enjoyed an assortment of our favorite Chinese specialties at one truck
and finished with chocolate waffles and crepes, complete with ice cream and
whipped cream, at another.
Over the next several days, we greeted more arriving
friends, shared stories of our sailing experiences this season with them and
took another trip into the downtown area to shop at the huge city market.
On our last evening in Papeete, we gathered with fellow
“puddle jumpers” at the Tourism Center for a welcoming ceremony that included
refreshments and a fine Polynesian music and dance exhibition. When the dancers concluded there routine,
some of our group of uncoordinated, mostly over-the-hill cruisers were coaxed
onto the dance floor where we made attempts to mimic the rhythmic moves of the
pros. We were embarrassed by our lack of
skills but had great fun never- the-less.
Day two of the “Puddle Jump Rendezvous” began with a 20
mile, group rally/race From Tahiti to the beautiful island of Moorea where the
group would anchor for another day of festivities. While the sail was intended to be a relaxed,
no-pressure rally rather than a race, there was an official signal from a
starting gun and, since it’s usually the nature of most sailors to want to
“race” any other boat that they see on the water, most everyone seemed intent
on sailing their floating homes with as much speed as possible. When signing-up for the event, we had been
asked to take two passengers who worked for the Board of Tourism. As most of the fleet proceeded out of the
harbor to the starting line, we were left behind waiting for our
passengers. When it was determined that
our passengers had been accommodated on another boat, we were late and had to
scramble to raise our sails and start sailing after the fleet that was already
underway. Starting about 10 minutes late
gave us the challenge of overtaking those ahead. Fortunately, windy conditions of 18 to 22
knots from our starboard quarter were just what we needed to sail “Blue Rodeo”
near her full potential. What fun it was
knifing through the group, overtaking boats one by one! Even though Mark has limited racing
experience and Anne even less, we sailed like a well –honed, America’s Cup team
spurred on by Anne’s inner competitive instincts. When the race concluded, we crossed the
finish line in fourth place out of 27 boats behind a 55’ performance catamaran,
a 57’ mono hull and a 44’ catamaran that unashamedly admitted that they had left
Papeete early.
The exciting day concluded with a cocktail reception and social gathering on the beach near our anchorage at Moorea’s spectacular Opunohu Bay. Sharing good times with so many wonderful people in such a beautiful place…wow, how fortunate we are
Great stories, and I'm glad you found food!!! Looks like you are having a great time. Beautiful pictures. Happy 4th of July!!!
ReplyDeleteNice to see your smiling faces. You both look great!
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